THE LOIRE-EN-RHONE-ALPES & ST.ETIENNE STORYANGLES

       St.Etienne – Capital

-     tenth largest city in France

-         industrial heritage of mining, weaponry, haberdashery,  and bicycles

-         now has the largest concentration of small and medium sized businesses in France – a dynamic environment

-         lively cultural and artistic atmosphere built around the Biennial of International Design which takes place this year

-         ‘must sees’ include the Museum of Modern Art (see below); the Grande Eglise dating from the fifteenth century; the Place de Peuple – all roads seem to lead here to what is the city’s most important square; the Saint Jacques neighbourhood – a labyrinth of little streets where the craft workers used to live…..

-         the private house of Etienne Mimard is here – inventor of mail-order sales.

            Many Museums

Museum of Modern Art – arguably one of the most important contemporary art collections in France, opened in 1987 in St.Etienne, with works by Monet, Rodin, Kandinsky and Matisse amongst others.  The representation of the artistic movements following the end of the Second World War are really what gives the Museum its fine reputation. 

Museum of Industrial Art – was re-opened in St.Etienne in 2001 and celebrates the creative capacity of industry. Three main industries are represented, those that were of prime importance to the city, ribbon – the most important collection in the world; bicycles - the largest public collection in France with over 300 bicycles and arms – the largest collection in France dating from the fifteenth century.    

International Museum of Pétanque & Boules - a shrine to these famous French sports in St.Bonnet-le-Château – capital of the world of boules and pétanque. 

Hat Museum - in Chazelles-sur-Lyon, a unique museum set in a former milliners, explaining the history of a local speciality – a felt hat made of rabbit fur. 

Doll Museum – displays 600 dolls including the famous GÉGÉ doll that was made in Montbrison until 1980 and was sold worldwide. 

Museum of the Silk Industry – is installed in what was the hospital of Charlieu and is a working museum demonstrating the importance of the industry to the local economy. 

The Mine Museum – is a testament to the industrial past of the region and is actually set in a disused mine in St.Etienne.  

Nature, Nature Everywhere

The Gorges of the Loire are very dramatic and the drive along the Route des Crêts runs along the top of the cliffs, affording fantastic views.  The land either side of the river is protected and dotted with quaint villages and castles.  The Loire is the longest river in France at 1012 kms. 

The Pilat Nature Reserve was created in 1974 and is set over an area of 700 square kilometers of mountainous and heavily forested terrain. 

The Black Woods is an immense forest and the ideal location for walking and hiking.  The woods form part of an extremely fertile area of the department called the Roannais.  

 Animal Antics

The Forez area is renowned for horse rearing.  There are many stables, horse-riding schools and two racetracks. Some of the most famous ‘trotteurs’ and race – horses in France have been bred and raised in the Forez.  Recently Welsh and Shetland ponies have been introduced into the Loire department. 

The Biterne Reserve in Arthun houses 62 protected and 37 endangered species of bird including the marsh harrier, black kite and hen harrier. It is situated in a migration corridor therefore excellent for bird watching too! 

The Forez Falconry Centre is where Pierre the falconer presents displays with his birds of prey! Falconry dates back to the Middle Ages when to own a falcon was a right of privilege.  Falconry was a science that had its own language, teachers and books. 

A bit fishy – the lakes of the Forez have always been an important source of freshwater fish such as trench and trout.  Carp were introduced in 1924 and now a carp with no scales has been bred – a ‘royal carp’. 

The Pilat Nature Reserve is home to many rare species of flora and fauna such as the short-toed eagle, the red-backed strike, martagon lilies, drosera, marsh violets and cotton grass. 

In Hell’s Gulf lives Eupitheca conterminata, a tiny moth that needs the old fir trees of the Furan Valley to survive.  The only other place it is known to exist is in Sweden.  

Famous Sons

Alain Prost, the legendary Formula One racing driver was born in the Loire. 

Pierre Boulez was born in Montbrison in 1925.  Originally he studied maths and only later turned to music.  He was director of the New York Philharmonic from 1971 – 1977 and permanent head of the BBC Symphony Orchestra. 

Pierre & Michel Troisgros – father and son opened the three Michelin starred restaurant in Roanne in 1930.  One of the most famous eating establishments in a region renowned for its cuisine. 

Aimé Jacquet – was football manager of the French World Cup winning side of 1998.  He was born in Sail-sous-Couzan in 1941. 

Greysolon Duluth – is the Frenchman who discovered the source of the Mississippi River in America in the seventeenth century.  Duluth in Minnesota is named after him. 

Honoré D’Urfé – is the creator of the French saga novel who was born in Lignon in the Forez in 1567, and lived in the magnificent castle of Bastie d’Urfé which can still be visited to this day.  A real action man, writing was something he did in his leisure time.   

The Most Beautiful Villages of France

Chartreuse-de-Sainte-Croix-en-Jarez – so secluded a spot, the Carthusian monks found their ideal haven here.  After five centuries the last monk left in 1792 and the village was sold to a neighbouring community who restored its once impressive splendour.  It is now classed as one of the loveliest villages in France and the church, with its fourteenth century frescoes is a gem in itself.  

Pommiers-en-Forez – started life as the Roman equivalent of the Royal Hospital Chelsea.  It became one of the foremost Benedictine priories of the Order of Cluny.  This is a perched  village in  the Roannais that has remained virtually  unchanged by time. 

Charlieu – a jewel - with picturesque, wood-beamed houses dating back to the thirteenth century.  The Benedictine Abbey dates from the twelfth century and the Cordelier Convent from the fourteenth.  Apart from being a religious centre, Charlieu was an important centre for the production of top quality silks.

Chambles - any village with a name such as this deserves a mention! In fact Chambles was the site of a castle and fortified church where today only a tower remains.  The view of the Forez mountains from here is stunning. 

Firminy – was traditionally an industrial town dating back to the nineteenth century that was completely redesigned by Le Corbusier in the 1960’s.  This was his last and largest project before leaving Europe and was known a ‘Radiant City’!  

Wine and Gastronomy

Badoit – more than a million bottles are produced daily.  Badoit is the premier bottled water in France with a 30% market share.  Originally the village of Badoit was developed as a spa where hydrotherapy was a speciality, the waters having been discovered in the sixteenth century.  In 1837 Auguste Saturnin took over the source and it was he who first bottled the water in glass bottles.  In 1965 Badoit became part of the Evian Mineral Water Company.   

Condrieu – is a well-known AOC wine  ‘a white wine with golden flecks’ one of three such Côtes du Rhône, the others being Saint-Joseph and Château - Grillet.  From the Loire Valley there are two more AOC favourites, Les Côtes du Forêz and La Côte Roannaise.  The latter is mentioned in the oldest wine list ever discovered in France, dating back to the seventeenth century. 

La Fourme de Montbrison – dates back to before the ninth century, and was given rare AOC status because of its reputation as one of the foremost cheeses of France.  A blue cheese that requires up to 25 litres of milk, it’s secret lies in adding salt whilst it is still in the mould; this is what gives it such a unique taste. 

La Praluline – is a brioche stuffed with pralines made in only one shop in the whole world – Pralus in Roanne.  François Pralus also makes chocolate from his own cacao plants grown in Madagascar!  He has won many awards and accolades for his sweets. 

Râpée – is typical of the St.Etienne area and is made from grated potatoes mixed with , butter, salt & pepper and eggs, and fried.   

Sarasson – is the residue of churned butter that is kneaded and eaten fresh with chives, oil and vinegar although it can also be eaten with sugar, jam or honey.  

Legends of the Loire

Saint-Prève - was the daughter of a wealthy Count of Forez in the eleventh century.  She asked for her share of her father’s wealth so that she could go and help the poor and underprivileged, to which her father agreed.  He gave her land and the house at Pommiers.  A local lord fell in love with Prève and requested her hand in marriage.  She refused so he got her brothers to avenge this slight and cut off her head, which they threw down a well. Upset by this the local people retrieved her remains and gave her a decent burial, after which miracle began to happen and hence she was canonised.   

Beatrice of Roussillon - was the wife of a Count William of Roussillon in the thirteenth century who supposedly saw a vision of a silver cross set among the stars.  It moved across the Courzon Valley and stopped at the site of what became the Saint Croix monastry.